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A quick guide to help you along the way if you encounter any
kinds of problems with your wine. Once again the major cause of wine
failures is a lack of proper sterilization procedures and practices.
Corkiness
Degassing
Flowers
of Wine
Racking
Rushing
or Splashing
Sediment
in Bottles
Soapy
Sterilization
Stuck
Fermentation
Wine
Diamonds
Woody
Sterilization-
-Proper sterilization of
all equipment is important. A solution of sulphite should be used--not
hot water--it will not kill bacteria. Cleanliness in surrounding areas
is also very important. Wipe of counter-tops and other working areas
with a cloth soaked in sulphite. Spilled products should be wiped
right away as it will attract vinegar (fruit) flies. Just one fruit fly
can turn your wine into vinegar. Also consider that bacteria, fungi and
wild yeasts are present in the air and on wine vessels. The leading
cause of wine failures is a lack of proper sanitation procedures. The
right equipment should be used, such as food grade plastic and glass
vessels. You should check before each use for scratches and or damage.
You should periodically change tubing and rubber bungs. Always ensure
there is sulphite solution in the airlock-- never let it go empty.
Rushing
or Splashing-
-It's one of the
major causes of oxidation in your wine. Make sure that your siphon hose
reaches the bottom of your container when racking or filling, and always
fill from the bottom up. A bit of aeration--splashing-- is okay if you
notice a slight smell of sulphur in your wine--add a few crushed
anti-oxidant tablets to prevent oxidation.
Racking-
-One of the main reasons for
racking your wine is to get it off the lees or sediment which will
produce a yeasty odor and taste to your wine if left sitting too long.
Always rack off on day 6 to 8, and again on day 20.
Sediment
in Bottles-
-If sorbate is
introduced to the must before fermentation is complete and a yeast cell
has started to bud, it will not kill it but will only slow down the
completion of budding, which is the major cause of re-fermentation in
the bottle. Use a wine hydrometer to check specific gravity before
racking will prevent this from happening.
Degassing
--The complete removal of
residual carbon dioxide gas is very important when making "4 week
wine kits". Failure to do this will result in the clarifying agent
being held suspended in the must or floating to the surface--meaning
your wine won't clear properly. Always ensure metabilsulhites has been
added to the wine before degassing it to prevent oxidation. Making your
wine in a single stage fermenter is not recommended. Stir or shake the
carboy vigorously for a minute or two once you add the stabilizing
agents-- and do the same three times a day for three days. once the wine
appears to have settled out a day or two later--give it another shake or
stir to ensure the crud on the side of the carboy is released--and that
any possible particles left in suspension fall to the bottom of the
carboy.

Corkiness
-- An unpleasant flavor and
bouquet in a wine that was bottled with a defective cork, usually
because there was not a complete seal and the outside air was allowed to
enter into the bottle. Also caused by using an inferior cork such as a
cheap agglomerate or a cork that that's full of small pinholes--in other
words it wasn't treated and filled in properly. Bad corks can also leave
a woody taste in the wine---over-soaking of the corks is one of the main
reasons.
Soapy
-- Results from wines having been
exposed to equipment, carboys and Fermenters that have not been properly
cleaned and rinsed. A slight residue of chlori-clean can leave that
soapy taste in your favorite vino.
Woody-
- Needless to say an aroma of wood
in your wine. Once again can be caused by over-soaking of corks. It can
also be brought on by neglecting to upkeep your wooden barrels-- which
can also lead to a moldy taste. The taste can also be caused by
over-aging with oak chips-- use the chips in the primary fermenter during the first stage--- then leave the chips behind when you rack
off.
Flowers
of Wine-
-A white film or skin
that forms on the surface of wines that have been exposed to air and
will eventually decompose the wine.
Stuck
Fermentation
--Wine has stopped
fermenting before reaching a specific gravity of .994 or .996 due to a
great many reasons. They include cold temperatures, too hot, bad yeast,
using a yeast that's reached its limit of alcohol tolerance, sugar has
all been utilized--too much sugar-- insufficient nutrients or
acids--insufficient oxygen---too much carbon dioxide--- the list goes on
and on. The simplest way to re-start it is to add a high powered yeast
--fermentation should begin in about 6 to 12 hours. Or you can make a
yeast starter by pulling off approximately 1/2 gallon of must, add 1 and
1/2 to 2 teaspoons of yeast energizer--and 1 packet of champagne yeast.
Mix well, cover loosely and place in a warm spot. Once you have a
vigorous fermentation you can add it back to the original must. See
Stuck Fermentation
Wine
Diamonds-
-This can happen with
hybrid kits that contain juice or an all juice kit during the aging
process in the carboy in lower temperatures. The diamonds don't hurt the
wine-- it just doesn't look as appealing. To prevent diamonds add 1.5
grams metatartaric acid to 10 milliliters of warm water--shake well---
and add to 23 liters of wine after fermentation is complete. You can add
the solution right before you bottle.
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